News Mania Desk/Piyal Chatterjee/5th September 2024
Many a writer has, over endless cups of the best chai in India, found the missing piece of that big murder mystery novel that has been simmering in their brain for years; or found humor in an overheard conversation at a street-side tea stand; or found solace in another writer’s struggle to find the words to describe difficult feelings. This is the unique relationship—however idealized—that authors have with tea. Some people see chai as a peaceful diversion from the insatiable tale deadlines they have to meet, while others see it as a strong link to the Indian places they adore and write about. So who better than writers all around India to suggest where to get the best chai?
Kolkata
Diya Kohli, director of features and special projects at Condé Nast Traveller India has a deep passion for the flavourful tea of Kolkata . One standout is Dolly’s The Tea Shop in Dakshinapan Shopping Complex, known for its cozy atmosphere and exceptional Darjeeling teas, where patrons can sit on cane stools and wooden crates. Kohli favors the Darjeeling second flush, lemon iced tea, and ham sandwich thereLastly, she recommends Maharani Tea and Tiffin, a small stall famous for its kulhad tea and delectable snacks like puri aloo and jalebis, making it a popular stop for breakfast and quick bites, especially for visitors at Rabindra Sarovar Lake.Radhu Babu’s Tea Shop, claimed to be the oldest in Kolkata and founded by revolutionary Radha Kishore Dutta, is another favorite of hers, particularly for its black tea and fresh buttered bread loaves.
Jaipur
Poorvi Singhal recalls her first visit to Gulab Ji Chai at 5:30 a.m. after a night out, where the sweet kadak chai and popular bun maska, which is delightfully buttery. Raghuveer Tea Stall, situated above the verandas in the walled city, offers stunning views and a soothing ambiance filled with the sounds of the city. The staff is accommodating and happy to tailor the drink to individual preferences. Located in the bustling Chaura Rasta area of Jaipur, Sahu offers a vibrant atmosphere filled with the energy of shops where The friendly uncle serving the Cutting Chai the crispy kharis, made with minimal milk and sugar, highlighting the aromatic chai masala powder that can be sampled at the counter
Mumbai
Suprita Mitter, a food writer, , rooted in her Bengali upbringing in Mumbai recalls the evening tea gatherings at her grandmother’s Kolkata home, where they would use fine crockery. Mitter enjoys her tea without milk, favoring Darjeeling tea, and holds a special place for the Taj Mahal Tea House in Mumbai especially their Smoky Mountain Tea. Additionally, she appreciates the sulemani chai at Prithvi Cafe, which is served with a slice of lime.
Delhi
Shirin Mehrotra, a food writer, shares her favorite chai order: kadak chai with less sugar. In Delhi, she frequents Dahiya Dhaba, Cafe Lota, and a tea stall in CR Park Market No.1. At Cafe Lota, she loves the chai and food, particularly the palak patta chaat and bite-sized sabudana vadas served in a paper cone. The café, located within an art museum, offers a peaceful atmosphere, and she appreciates the strong chai that isn’t overly sweet or flavored with elaichi. At Dahiya Dhaba, she pairs her chai with sattu paratha. The tea stall in Chittaranjan Park is a familiar spot for her. Mehrotra enjoys chai stalls as places to observe and engage with the local culture.
Pune
Suprita Mitter, a food writer, recommends several tea spots. One of her favorites is French Window Patisserie, celebrated for its baked goods and simple, calming rose tea. This tea has special meaning for her, as it helped ease her nerves. She often pairs it with the opera cake. Another favorite is Paashh in Kalyani Nagar, known for its extensive tea selection, particularly the marigold tea, which she enjoys while admiring the lovely garden views through the large windows. She also likes their Flower Power salad and flourless cake. Lastly, she appreciates the sulemani chai from Irani Cafe, which has multiple locations in Pune and is served with dates.
Bengaluru
Ruth Dsouze Prabhu, a food writer, highly recommends Makkah Cafe as a must-visit destination. This historic cafe has long been a favorite among tea enthusiasts, particularly students. Prabhu enjoys their sulemani chai and kova buns and has been a regular visitor since moving to Bengaluru 22 years ago. It was an ideal spot for newcomers on a budget and was essential when she began her food writing career. Now, it serves as a comforting go-to whenever she’s in the vicinity. Additionally, Khazana Food Paradise, known for its beef biryani, is conveniently located nearby.
Lucknow
According to food writer Shirin Mehrotra, Qadir Lassi and Kashmiri Chail offers a strong chai that can be customized to individual preferences, making it a great spot for people-watching in a bustling market. Sharma Ji Ki Chai known as the most popular chai shop in Lucknow, can be overly milky at times but the shop serves delicious snacks, including the popular bun makhan—bread filled with white butter, which pairs well with chai—and round samosas. M/S Ram Kewal Tea Stall in Hazratganj was a favorite of Mehrotra’s father. They prepare their chai by washing the glass with hot water, adding black tea, milk, and sugar, and finishing it with malai. The milk is poured from a height, resulting in a frothy texture, and this style of chai is reminiscent of old Delhi.
