Independent brand Simon Cracker denounces luxury fashion system with upcycled parodies

The independent Italian fashion label Simon Cracker criticized the luxury fashion industry with a preview of their upcycled collection at Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, drawing on what they perceive as the lost era of quality and innovation. The coed collection crafted from salvaged and deadstock clothing, fabrics, and accessories featured a playful nod to Hermes’ coveted Birkin bag, with designers illustrating the signature hardware on leather bags or screen-printing images of the iconic bag onto sweaters.

Co-creative directors Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi were thrilled that Walmart released what many perceived as a Birkin imitation while they were developing this collection.

“People are no longer interested in fashion,” Biraghi stated. “They have been misled for 20 years.” With 50 conflicts globally, along with climate change, we are all becoming poorer. The relationship between price and value has vanished. At some stage, you must stop.

The collection humorously mocks the typical Milanese lady, referred to in dialect as sciura, playfully styling her with funky tweed outfits, a foulard, and even a miniature dog. Every silhouette is distinctive, made from clothing the duo retrieves from dry cleaners and various sources, while models assume their roles with carefree slouches and dramatic runway walks.

The brand expanded its partnership with Doc Martens, adorned with trompe l’oeil ballet shoes. Occasionally, skirts, collars, and ornamental fringe were made from gleaming tinsel packing material, while shoes were adorned with ribbons. The performance concluded with an outfit entirely hidden by opulent tags from Biraghi’s personal collection amassed over time. “We’re mocking riches,” he stated.

The critique of the Simon Cracker runway targets the industry during a tough time — and experts indicate it requires change. A recent report from McKinsey consultancy and The Business of Fashion reveals that leading brands are experiencing a major slowdown this year, following four years of remarkable growth from 2019-2023 that enabled the industry to expand by a compounded annual rate of 5% despite the pandemic.

According to the McKinsey-Business of Fashion report, price increases that exceeded innovation accounted for 80% of that expansion. The Bain consulting group has also predicted a decline of 2% for 2025, marking the first such downturn since the Great Recession, excluding the pandemic year of 2020. It mentioned a creativity crisis alongside global upheaval.

The results do not come as a shock to Botte and Biraghi. “Biraghi stated, ‘If a piece of clothing lacks interest, doesn’t convey a narrative, and is void of creativity, who is interested?’” “We all possess an abundance of clothing, far too much.” “We require no further.”