The ultimate guide to India’s “toy trains”

On a fresh summer morning, a small passenger train winds through the undulating hills near Ooty (Udhagamandalam) in South India. The train is traveling at a frustratingly slow rate, yet the passengers appear to be largely unconcerned about the pace (or absence of it). Rather, they are entranced by the unfolding landscape – the vibrant hills, the undulating tea plantations and bubbling waterfalls, the numerous stone bridges and shadowy tunnels.

Colored blue in tribute to the Nilgiris, the blue mountains that are a section of the larger Western Ghats range that extends through southern India’s states, this is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, a historic narrow-gauge railway that marked its 125th anniversary in 2024.

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway, together with the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and the Kalka–Shimla Railway, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed trio referred to as the “Mountain Railways of India,” which UNESCO describes as “living examples of the engineering achievements from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.”

Historic mountain railways in India, known as “toy trains,” were built during British rule to transport goods and people through challenging terrains. Now considered novelty routes, they attract tourists and feature in Bollywood films. Offering a slow travel experience amidst picturesque landscapes, these charming trains evoke nostalgia. Many stations reflect colonial history, showcasing artifacts and culture.

There is no catering on board these miniature trains, so carry snacks, especially if traveling with children. However, vendors pop up with hot and cold snacks and beverages at various stops, so you’ll never go hungry. Carriages tend to be small and short on space, but that’s all part of the mountain railway experience.

Steam engines still operate on lines such as the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and Nilgiri Mountain Railway, but many trains are today pulled by diesel engines. On some routes, you can book a seat in a special Vistadome carriage with extra-large windows.

Tension mounted in the room. Devices vibrated as everyone’s attention was focused on a single bag. Worn and mildly scratched, it was the original Birkin Bag created for the late Anglo-French actress Jane Birkin.